Thank you for your purchase of a Stryker inflatable boat! Our showroom and office is located in Aldergrove, BC, Canada. We strive to bring the very best premium inflatable boats to our customers. We saw an area of the market that was lacking and decided that we could bring something special. Our goal is to deliver a rugged, tough and comprehensive inflatable boat. We pride ourselves in exemplary customer service.

We have included information on how to assemble disassemble & care for your new Stryker boat. Written instructions and link to our instructional videos on our Stryker Boats YouTube channel 

 

ASSEMBLY

How To Assemble Your Stryker Video

  

Valves

Locate inflation valves in chambers (3 for Ranger LX, 5 for Hunter X & JET) 

Put valves in the ‘closed’ position prior to inflation. They are closed when the pin is in the up position.

For first time assembly only: Inflate your boat to 100% for 2 – 4 hours without the floor and let it sit. This works best in a warmer environment. This will help stretch out the fabric and will allow the floor to be installed easier the first time. You can skip this step if this boat has been used before.  Deflate to 20% when ready to install the floor.

Inflate boat to approximately 20% (This will give your boat a shape). You can do this with either the foot pump supplied or optional electric pump.

Aluminum Floor Boats

How To Install Your Floor Video

Advanced Flooring Stabilization System Video

  

  • Install piece #1 into the bow of the boat (number side up). Push this piece as far forward as possible. Be careful of the valve’s center pin as you push forward and allow the keel valve to line up in the hole. If this seems very difficult then there may be too much air in the tubes.
  •  Install the transom piece making sure to tuck it under the aluminum lip on the transom. Line up the drain with the cut out on the floor piece.
  •  Begin working your way to the centre of the boat installing each floor piece and making sure to line up the edges as the stringers will need to be attached after all the floor pieces are in.
  •  Once you are at the final piece raise them up so that they create a ‘tent’ shape. Before you step down make sure that there is no fabric caught under any of the floor and everything looks lined up straight. Once they are lined up you can step on it to press is down.
  •  Stringers are to be installed on the outer edges of the floor pieces. They need to be installed so that they overlap the joints of the floor pieces. This will provide stability. The first time you do this will be the hardest because it is a bit of a tight fit. Sometimes it helps if you use an oar underneath the boat.

Airmat Floor Boats

  • Place the deflated airmat floor in the boat with it’s floor board underneath. This floorboard is inside a sleeve and it’s purpose it to keep the floor flat once the keel is inflated.
  • Slide the rubber airmat floor tramsom holders into the grooves on the transom.
  • Pull the floor to all edges of the boat making sure to line up the keel valve in the center of the hole of the airmat floor.
  • Go around the perimeter of the boat tucking the floor into the edges under the tube.
  • Inflate floor (10PSI)

Seats

Place bench seats into fabric holders.

NOTE: It is not necessary to install bench seats if you prefer to run the boat without.

Finishing The Boat:

Inflate the main tubes the rest of the way (3.6PSI).

NOTE: Inflate the main compartments in a 2 or 3 step sequence. If you fully inflate one main compartment when the others are empty you may damage the internal baffles that separate the compartments. 

NOTE: Our Bravo electric pump is designed with an automatic shutoff when set to correct pressure. If you are using the supplied foot pump, it is designed to go up to just 4 PSI. If you are unsure of how much pressure is in the tubes just keep pumping until you can’t pump anymore. When in doubt, pump it out.

About Your Electric Pump Video

 

Install oars making sure to screw the caps on tight, so that you don’t lose your oars in the water.  Install all the bags and cover valves with protectors.

Keel

The keel is the last air chamber to be inflated (4PSI)

NOTE: We do not recommend going inside the boat with the keel inflated on ground. This could potentially damage your boat. 

Last Assembly Notes:

It is not recommended that you use an air compressor to inflate your boat. Air compressors are designed for a very high pressure and you could easily damage your boat. If you are using an electric pump you already own (purchased elsewhere) this will help put majority of the air into the tubes however will not get it up to full pressure. Finish the boat up with supplied foot pump.

If you find your boat isn’t planing properly or seems too ‘flexible’ it is possible your boat is under inflated.

If you find you are losing air pressure in the tubes you may wish to take the valve tool (inside the repair kit) to tighten all the valves.

Recommended Pressures:

  • Main Tubes: 3.6PSI
  • Inflatable Keel: 4.0PSI
  • Airmat Floor: 10 PSI

  

DISASSEMBLY

How To Disassemble Your Stryker Video

 

Open all the air chambers.

Aluminum Floor:

Deflate keel. Close valve and replace valve cap.

Remove stringers.

Remove floor pieces carefully and place in carry bag.

Airmat Floor:

Deflate floor, close valve, and replace valve cap.

It is not necessary to remove the floor from the boat unless you want to clean the boat.

Folding The Boat:

Fold the pontoons in so that the entire Stryker Shield is visible on the top of the boat. This should make the boat no wider than the transom.

Fold the cones inward to the transom. If you have launching wheel brackets on it would be best to use a piece of cardboard or old fabric to protect your boat from any sharp edges.

Begin rolling the boat up starting at the transom.

Fold in the bow.

Place the boat in the centre of the carry bag.

NOTE: Be sure to screw the cap back onto the oar locks so that the sharp edges do not damage the fabric

Last Disassembly Notes:

Allow the valves to be in the open position (pin pushed down) so that any excess air can escape as you roll up the boat.

If you plan on putting your boat away for the season it would be wise to thoroughly clean/dry your boat so that when you open it next time there is no mould or odor.

Instructions On Care

During The Season

Keep your boat free of dirt, debris & grime (take care of your stuff and it’ll take care of you)

If you keep your boat in the water, regularly check the bottom for excessive build-up of marine life.

UV Radiation

This is the number one enemy of PVC inflatable boats. Since your new Stryker is a sizeable investment it is important that you protect it from the sun. This is not a concern for those of you who wish to inflate your boat for a weekend of use or while on vacation but if you plan on leaving your boat inflated outside whether it be at the end of a dock or on your sailboat all summer this is an important realization.

 

We recommend covering your boat when not in use for extended periods of time. We realize it is not practical and pretty inconvenient to cover the boat every time you get in and out but if it will be left out in the elements for several days it is highly advisable to cover it.

We also recommend applying 303 Aerospace Protectant to your boat. This is a very effective product but must be reapplied periodically. Think of this as a sunscreen for your boat.

 

Air Loss

30% air loss is normal over a 2 week period. Air loss will be dependent on ambient temperatures. Example: if you inflate your boat on a cold morning the air will expand and the anti over inflation valve will go to work. Same for the opposite. If you inflate your boat on a very warm day, it will lose some air overnight if temperatures drop considerably.

NOTE: Should you notice more air loss than this it is advisable to find the valve key in your repair kit and tighten up all valves. If you’re still noticing significant air loss your boat may have a leak/hole. You can check for these by spraying soapy water around suspected areas.

NOTE: To find tiny leaks, take floor boards out, inflate boat hard. Put some liquid detergent in a bucket of water and with rag or big wash brush, scrub it all over boat. Keep watch for elusive, tiny bubbles. When you find the first leak, keep looking. You might as well fix them all at the same time! Remember, the number one cause of slow leaks is a poorly seated valve. Unscrew, clean. Make sure little rubber O-rings are good. They are the cheapest repair possible.

Replacing Valve

Fully deflate your boat. Use the valve tool supplied in your repair kit to unscrew the outer portion of the valve. There is a female end of the valve on the inside of tube. Make sure you hold this otherwise you will have to find it. Not impossible, but annoying. Once you have unscrewed the outer portion you can replace it with your new valve. Valves can be purchased online.

Repairing A Leak

Small repairs and the addition of small accessories may be attempted by the owner if factory gluing instructions are followed closely.

Rips or holes larger than one inch in the air chambers or within two inches of a seam should be repaired with internal and external patches by a professional repair technician at a certified repair facility. Our local authorized repair facility is available should you be unsure of how to fix this yourself.

Greelys Inflatable Boat Repair (Langley, BC) – 604-514-9975

Recommended Solvent:

MEK (methyl ethyl ketone). It is often available at paint, hardware or plumbing stores, sold as a cleaner for PVC pipes or lacquer thinner. For non-critical bonds you might substitute acetone.

Glue:

Your boat came equipped with a tube of one part PVC glue in the repair kit. This glue will work well for very small holes (pin holes) but for larger holes or seams you should use two part PVC glue. Do not use glue that is not specifically intended for PVC fabric. Hypalon glue will not bond properly with PVC.

Humidity:

Humidity must be less than 70%.

Temperature:

Do not glue in direct sunlight. Temperature should be between 64 and 77 degrees F.

Preparation:

Gather rags, glue brush; solvent; timer with second hand or stop watch; make sure all the old glue is cleaned off; get your patch cut out, position noted and marked. It always leaves a neat tidy finish if you tape off the perimeter of the patch area with masking tape to avoid over glue.

If using a 2 part glue, mix accelerator and glue thoroughly either now or while waiting between the solvent wipes below. Accelerator is toxic; keep off skin. Keep mixed glue covered (foil or wax paper) when not using. Pot life is about 1 hour. It may still look liquid, but will have lost effectiveness.

Solvent Cleaning:

(3 times - to prepare the fabric for a chemical bond with the glue)

Method:

Scrub both sides (boat and patch or accessory) with MEK on a rag to clean surface. Be careful not to wipe the MEK on areas of the boat or patch that will be seen as MEK will make the fabric sticky and shiny. Use masking tape around the perimeter to minimize this. Wait 5 minutes after the first MEK wash. (time it)

Apply two more solvent wipes with 5 minute waiting time (timed) between them.

You are preparing the fabric for glue adhesion. Abrading these PVC fabrics is not recommended or necessary.

Glue Application: (3 thin layers)

  • Apply a thin glue layer with stiff brush to both sides.
  • Aggressively work it into the fabric with the brush. If it looks too thin, it is probably correct!
  • Wait five minutes (timed) If glue still looks wet, wait longer.
  • Repeat the 2 steps above (total of 3 layers with 5 minute open time between)
  • Wait 10 minutes after third layer of glue.
  • Join the surfaces during the next 10 minutes. Start from one edge and slowly lay the patch or accessory down onto the glued area.
  • Press out all air bubbles and wrinkles from the center to the edges. On deflated boat rub as hard as possible with smooth tool, e.g. the back of a large tablespoon - force air out from between boat and patch. Careful not to scratch the fabric.
  • For davits and hard based accessories, deflate boat and press through from other side to make sure of adhesion.
  • Wipe off excess glue with solvent.
  • If over 10 minutes or if glue has spots of white haze the glue has picked up moisture and you should try to "reactivate" it. With a clean rag wet the glue surface with MEK but do not rub the glue off (one quick swipe).
  • Then assemble immediately.
  • Press hard. For accessory on an inflated boat you can rub it down vigorously with a rag.
  • Make sure there is no MEK on the rag when using it to run down the part or patch.
  • Wait at least 48 hours before use.
  • Pressure test if you want to be sure. Blow it up to full pressure. Leave it overnight.

NOTE:  Bond strength drops very rapidly with heat or high humidity. Take your boat indoors. Don't even think about trying to glue on the dock or near the water or in direct sunlight. Professionals use a specially built, climate controlled room, and still don't attempt to work on a rainy day.

NOTE: (when using a 2 part PVC glue - Sta-Bond or Clifton Adhesive): The solvents in the glue must evaporate before assembly. When ready to assemble parts, the glue must not be tacky at all to the finger. It must not have spots of whitish glaze. If so, you may have spread the glue too thick, not waited long enough between coats, or a sudden drop in temperature or gust of humid air may have occurred. Someone may have opened the door, or you may have leaned too close and breathed on it. Plan to stay in the room until finished.

NOTE: If using small cans (1/4 L) mix the entire can with the dose of accelerator. Inaccurate measurement will weaken the glue. Once opened the accelerator cannot be kept. Do not try to save it. The quality of your final bond depends on it.

NOTE: Apply glue with a paint or glue brush with the bristles cut short (1/2 to 3/4") so they are stiff. It must be natural hair (i.e. OK for lacquer); bound in metal not plastic; preferably with wooden or metal handle. Careful not to get glue on areas of your boat besides the repair area.

NOTE: Old glue must be completely removed -- solvent, sandpaper, scraping, grinding with a Dremel tool. Glue will not stick to old glue. Clean it off thoroughly. Be careful not to burn or melt the fabric if using a Dremel tool. Constant motion with the tool will prevent this problem.

NOTE: If your boat has ever been protected with ArmorAll® or another silicone or petroleum based product, you may have great difficulty getting a bond. Wipe the repair area well with MEK, follow the gluing instructions closely and hope for the best.

Large Patches

If patching, cut patches 1 to 2 " larger than tear in each direction and round the corners (a quarter makes a good template for the edges). Little one inch circles pasted over a pin hole won't last. Try to get the same fabric used by the manufacturer for your boat. The inside and outside surface may be different. If you can't match color, sometimes a cleverly shaped patch in contrasting color can be made to look like decoration instead of a Band-Aid. e.g. arrow, lightning bolt, even a new D ring if in right spot. Professionals often put one on each side to look like they came with the boat.

Inflate boat to apply accessories. Deflate to patch air leaks, even if very small. Air pressure will bubble the patch before glue sets.

Safety

  • Do Not Smoke! Glues and solvents are flammable. No open flames (e.g. furnace or pilot light when working in a cellar.)
  • Use in a well ventilated area. Fumes can be overwhelming. A carbon filter respirator is recommended. MEK solvent smells, but is relatively safe. It is recommended that you not use Toluene - the factories do but it is quite dangerous.
  • Accelerator (small bottle) is toxic. If spilled on on your skin WASH IMMEDIATELY with soap and water. If in your eyes, IMMEDIATELY FLUSH WITH WATER for at least 2 minutes and consult a physician. (Accelerator is an isocyanate based product.)
  • Always wear safety gear as recommended by the manufacturer of glue, solvent, accelerator, etc.

Gluing Additional Accessories:

You can use the steps above provided. Some glues recommended are Sta-Bond or Clifton Adhesive.

Fuel Spills:

This can damage the fabric of your inflatable boat. Take time to clean up fuel spills promptly if they happen to occur.

Exhaust:

If you are using a davit system you should position your boat so that it will not be subjected directly to exhaust fumes.

End Of Season:

  • Remove the floor (both aluminum and airmat) from your boat.
  • Inflate the boat without the floor inside.
  • Wash your entire boat with warm soapy water. If you prefer you may use a boat wash product that is approved for PVC. Rinse your boat with fresh water and allow boat and all parts to dry thoroughly.

Store boat in bags in a dry location.

Last Notes:

You are welcome to store the boat fully inflated if you have the space. Deflation is not necessary.

The boat should be stored cleaned and dried. If the boat is stored wet and subjected to freezing temperatures while in storage, the freezing and thawing of the water can damage the fabric.

Do not use Armor All on your boat. Or any other product that contains silicone on your inflatable boat. Applying Armor All will make it extremely difficult to patch if you should ever have a puncture or tear. Even years later it would still be difficult to successfully apply any patch. Always check labels that the product you intend to use is safe for use on PVC fabric. When in doubt you can call the manufacturer of the product. Remember that these products should not have silicone.